Category Archives: General Care

Bum Lifting & Tribal Calls!

I attempted to breed BlueBerry and Skor again last evening. BlueBerry did not behave as aggressive as before. As usual, Skor will attempt to mount with every opportunity. I was busy cleaning their cages and I took a peek through the window. Not too long after, I saw Skor mounting and then to my surprise, BlueBerry lifted her bum quite high up this time and it wasn’t something she has done so far. In a split second, as Skor “went for the kill”, he gave a loud “tribal call” while falling backwards.

Judging from BlueBerry’s behavior, it somehow tells me that she was too shy whenever I am around. She will normally cuddle up at the corner of the playpen when I approach her. I guess rabbits need some privacy too.

Well, I gave them enough private time for 2 bum lifts and tribal calls. I even wanted to snap a photo of them in the act but I figured that I should spare them from embarrassment and truly respect their privacy. I do not condone animal pornography. LOL!!!!

Watch out people, “kits in the nest box” coming this way in another month!

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Why diarrhea?

I participate in the local rabbit forum and sometimes, I read about new rabbit owners in distress because their rabbits are having diarrhea.

There are many sides to their stories. Some fed their 6 weeks old rabbits fresh vegetable and some just could not differentiate between diarrhea and cecal. Whatever the reason, most of the time, the underlying problem remains the same – the kits were weaned too early.

Some of these kits are packed and sent to pet shops at the tender age of 4 weeks just to maximize their “shelf life”. Yes, the main factor is their cuteness. And most of them have to pay with their lives.

Many unaware buyers get caught in the web of deception because they simply do not know that what looks good on the outside does not necessarily reflect what is inside. This is especially true with rabbits because being animal of prey, they do not normally show sign of weakness and if they do, it may already be too late.

And the most frustrating part is that some owners just sit on their heavy butt and failed to weigh the urgency of the situation. They still post in forums expecting for advice when what they should do is to send their rabbits to the vet right away.

Most of the time I do not even dare to feedback on these posts because firstly, it is difficult to ascertain the real situation through the shallow descriptions given and secondly, I believe they should always consult a qualified vet immediately when their rabbits show symptoms of illness.

The last thing I want is having a dead rabbit because of my recommendations due to my inaccurate assumptions.

But what if all else fails?

If you got yourself a vet whom is only well versed in cats and dogs, then that will leave you with no choice but to try the best to save little bunny. So what should you do?

It is a norm to rehydrate the rabbit the best you could by providing loads of water and stop giving pellets for a day. Provide unlimited hay and only re-introduce the pellets once the stomach stabilized (judge through normal fecal deposited).

Most resources encourage feeding rabbits below 6 months with alfalfa but I notice that some young rabbits do not take to alfalfa all that well. They start to have excessive cecal due to the reason that alfalfa may be too rich for them. I just cannot remember the exact cause for excessive cecal when feeding alfalfa to young rabbits. Someone please enlighten me on that.

I believe the best pointer is always going back to the basics. I normally get idea by reminding myself about how wild rabbits are when they are in the wild. What do they eat in the wild is a good question to begin with.

I always like to conclude that the way to a healthy rabbit is through its stomach. As long as their stomach is in good condition, there will always be binkies.

I started off this post wanting to give a solution for diarrhea but I believe it has been written for too many times and I am not a qualified vet to begin with so I do not think I am in the position advice.

I hope someone can comment and perhaps give their opinion on how to solve a diarrhea problem. Thanks in advance.

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Rabbit genetics

There is so much one can debate on genetics and with rabbits, you always hear breeders using the term line breeding & out crossing. I do not want to touch on the topics of inbreeding because I am totally against that although it is possible to do so and there are breeders using this technique as well. Inbreeding is when 2 siblings of the same litter are bred. This is what I do not do in my rabbitry.

Please allow me briefly explain the meaning of the terms here. Line breeding is the widely used technique by many breeders. They normally breed rabbits through mating father to daughter, son to mother or more distant relationship along the same LINEAGE i.e. nephew to aunts & etc. Why do this? Because to maintain a particular traits/characteristic of the rabbit, breeders need to get those exact genes into the offspring.

Out crossing is when 2 totally unrelated rabbits from totally unrelated lines are bred. Many breeders start off their own lines by out crossing more of the time. Until they get the desired traits laid down by certain standards by certain establishment, they start to use line breeding instead.

What seemed to be gross to many, it is so different with rabbits. Breeders normally keep their gene pool small in order to maintain the quality of their rabbits. But this is normally done when the desired traits start to manifest in the outcome of out crossing.

Therefore, if you see the ancestral lineage through the pedigrees, you might notice that there are many unrelated rabbits being bred to get the current generation. So far, what I notice with many breeders is that all their rabbits have different physical characteristics. But as long as all these rabbits adhere to the breed standards, they are show able. Some may have broader shoulders compared to others but those with narrower shoulders still able to be granded as well. Therefore, as long as the rabbit adhere to the minimum required standard, they are able to go onto the tables to be judged.

But their overall disposition may differ from line to line. That is how rabbitries establish their trademark. If that is not the situation, then we will have very generic rabbits that all look alike. There will not be varieties at all.

Just like how the many types of human behaviors define the many varieties in this world, rabbits are set apart through their characteristics, be it color or structure.

So it does not matter whether the gene pool is small or big, as long as the desired traits manifest in your rabbitry, you are heading the right way.

And who defines the desired traits? You and me. We have our own preferences on how our rabbits look. Once they adhere to the breed standard, we can work on the other “cosmetics”.

In the end, who establishes the standards? It is mere human.

And who sets the real & physical standards?

God. Not all rabbits are born alike. Therefore, never let your weak human standard judge your rabbits. They are all made by God and are gifts to you.

Nuff said…

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New Rabbitry Shelf: Proof Of Concept #2 (SUCCESS!)

I was looking forward to a dull Saturday but things took a super twist. I suddenly got this urge to try out the new shelving concept I had in mind. This time I decided to setup the actual one.

So off I went to the hardware shop to get some pipes and to a pet store to stock up on my cages. I need actual cages to make sure that my “mock test” works exactly how I want it to be.

On my first attempt, I built the first level too high up and leaving no height for the 3rd level. So I dismantle everything and then worked from ground up again.

I guess pictures will tell a thousand words. I am too tired to type so I’ll just leave the photos to do all the talking:

Attempt #1:

Attempt #2:

Test Drive:

From every angle, the bunny “canon balls” just falls in to place. All in the pipe!!!!

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My stand on Neutering/Spaying

I have always supported the cause for responsible pet ownership and if someone ask me if they should spay or neuter their pet rabbit, I would strongly encourage them to do so. And especially here in Malaysia.

I realize over time that we are overloaded with mixed breeds. Not that I am against mixed breeds, I am just against irresponsible breeding. I believe if you want to breed, make sure you breed for quality improvement and also always have the future generation on your mind. We must always be responsible for our future generation especially in what we want to pass on to them.

Mixed breeds make the best pets and there is no doubt about that. But for me personally, I prefer to venture into purebreds. So being an enthusiast of purebreds, my personal stand is that I share the best of my rabbits with fellow enthusiasts.

So as for neutering and spaying, I will strongly recommend it without thinking twice about it. Mainly because there are too many opportunists around that exploits their pets in the expense of money. In my humble opinion, if one breeds ethically, he or she may never gain any profit. When one gains profit out of breeding pets, usually they are cutting edges and the quality of the pets is at stake.

Neutering and spaying pets control to a certain degree the possibility that your pet will be exploited if they happen to be passed on from hand to hand. Most of these irresponsible breeders are so blinded by money that they could not be bothered with the genetic makeup of the rabbit.

Neutering and spaying will help control the number of unwanted pets.

Someone emailed me this morning and mention to me that he and his son is planning to neuter both their bucks. I strongly encourage that and I gave him credit for it because not only he is being a responsible owner, he is teaching his son to be the same. Very credible pet owner and this is the type of rabbit owner I would like to share my rabbits with. That being said, I hope I do not get loads of emails telling me that they plan to get a rabbit from me and they will spay/neuter them but ends up losing contact with me and the rabbits do not get spayed/neutered but instead when I get updates on them, they already had 3 “accidental” litters of bunnies.

I would neuter or spay my pets if they are not for breeding but at this moment, my aim is to produce good quality Holland Lops. Therefore, I cannot spay/neuter my rabbits.

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Rabbits & Vaccinations

Someone asked me in the forum whether I would recommend vaccinations for rabbits. In my opinion, I will only vaccinate any of my pets based on the following:

1) Outbreak of disease
I do not find it necessary to vaccinate rabbits when there is no sign of outbreak. At this moment, there are 2 viruses that rabbits need to be vaccinated against – Myxomatosis & Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD). And touch wood, these viruses have not came into Malaysia, yet!

2) Availability of vaccines
Of course it would not be possible to vaccinate rabbits if the vaccines are not available. Dogs and cats are the common pets being treated and vaccines for these pets are readily available. I cannot say the same for rabbits. And the sad reality is, not many local vets know how to treat rabbits and that alone tells me that they will never spend too much on stocking up on rabbit vaccines.

My conclusion is, I will not vaccinate my rabbits until it is absolutely necessary. I rather take prevention measure like keeping my rabbits free from mites and fleas which are the agent for the above mentioned viruses/diseases.

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Why do I recommend Oxbow Hay Products?

Ever heard of the saying “The key to a man’s heart is through his stomach”? Coincidentally, this saying is suitable for rabbits too.

The key to a healthy and happy rabbit is to keep his or her stomach healthy. Based on the many articles written on the internet, many have came to the conclusion that adult rabbits must be fed with a high fiber diet supported by 24 hour access to HAY. Hay promotes healthy gut movements.

I would just like to quote a number of articles on the internet that support this high fiber theory:

1) “Pellets should be fresh, and should be relatively high in fiber (18% minimum fiber)” – House Rabbit Society
2) “The best cure for GI stasis is prevention. Be sure your rabbit companion gets plenty of dietary fiber from fresh grass hay. Feed high fiber (22% or higher crude fiber) pellets” – GastroIntestinal Stasis, The Silent Killer by Dana M. Krempels, Ph.D.

I believe these 2 statements from highly reliable resources should be enough to tell us that we must work hard to keep our pet rabbits’ stomach healthy always.

And let’s take a look at the guaranteed analysis of Oxbow pellets:

  • Crude Protein min 14.00%
  • Crude Fat min 1.50%
  • Crude Fiber max 29.00%
  • Calcium max 0.85%

*taken from www.OxbowHay.com

A whooping 29.00%!!! isn’t that great!??

Many rabbit owners have encountered a sudden death in their rabbits and normally brushes it off as a shock or heart attack. Little do they know that there were actually symptoms leading to the death of their rabbits. They are just not in tuned with their rabbits’ eating habits. Normally, a rabbit will stop eating and drinking if it has got stomach upset.

Whenever you feed your rabbit, just take note of the amount that you gave and ensure that he or she have not left the food and water untouched. If that happens, quickly pack your rabbit and go to the nearest bunny-savvy vet and tell him or her that you are suspecting G.I. Stasis with poor bunny. You only have 24 hours to save your bunny’s life.

I hope that will never happen to you. You will never be happier seeing poop but count your blessings when you see healthy poop in your rabbit’s litter box!

Lastly, just on the reason why I am heavily promoting Oxbow Products is because firstly, it is the recommended rabbit feed by many and secondly, it is the only good rabbit feed made available locally at the moment. I normally go for rabbit feed of good quality and have a CONSTANT supply. I really dislike having to switch feed halfway through when my rabbits has got used to the feed.

Happy pooping bunnies!

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Determining the age of rabbits

I am beginning to doubt and be skeptical about the age of my imported does. So here I am going on a hunt for some information to ascertain and determine the age of rabbits. I learned quickly that it is merely impossible to determine the exact age.

But I stumbled across an answer that says that we can roughly estimate the age of rabbits by looking at the ears. The more veins they have, the older they are. I am going to give this method a try but how much is many and how much is less?

The search continues…

Anyone with knowledge on this topic please feel free to post your comments.

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Average Water Intake Guideline

One of the signs of problem that I always look out for in my herd is the food and water intake. I roughly know how much each and everyone of my rabbits eat per day but I was not sure how much water they should be drinking daily. As it is very subjective and very much depends on individuals, I needed to ascertain a guideline so that I could always have a mental note behind my little brain.

That sent me looking for answers on the internet and I finally got an answer.

Someone has written that the normal water intake for an average mammal would be 90 ml to 100 ml per kg per day. Therefore I would take it as a guide that my rabbits should be taking AT LEAST 160 ml per day because all of them are within the range of 1.6 kg to 1.7 kg.

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What is the use of HAY?

This is just so embarrassing. I have so much on my mind these days that I really have forgotten some really fundamental things. By blogging this I am ensuring that I do not ever forget this one fundamental thing about rabbits’ diet.

As you have read on my previous posting about Oxbow Products being available here, I was going through their products at the stall the other day and opt for Oxbow Oat Hay to be added to the regular Timothy Hay I am currently giving the buns. SB told me she settled for Botanical Hay instead of the Oat Hay she initially targeted.

I then asked her why Botanical? Then she asked me a question which really struck me and I was actually lost for words. She asked, “What is the reason you give hay?”. Such a simple question became one that sent me scurrying for an answer at the back of my head. I quickly settled for “providing more varieties and tastes for my bunnies?”.

Just like a game show, I could almost hear the “BUZZZZ” indicating a wrong answer. My goodness! How could I get that wrong?

SB always have a good way in helping me remember things. Her words are almost like the POST IT! And she has a good brain retention period for knowledge unlike me because I always flush out stuff on my mind to make room for more pressing issues.

SB said that for her, she opt for Botanical Hay or any hay for the matter is to help the buns have different texture to chew on and that will give a different motion as to how the buns chew. Oat hay is almost like Timothy Hay so a better variety would be Botanical Hay.

I then imagine myself banging my head on this table right in front of me…

There you have it, the basic of all basics the reason why we feed our rabbits HAY!

Other benefits of hay include:

1) Provide roughage and reduces the risk of stomach blockage
2) The chewing motion while chewing allows for wearing down teeth keeping them from overgrowth
3) Occupying your rabbit from chewing your favorite furniture at home the entire day (limiting damages-LOL!!!)

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